HANTEK 3064 PDF

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Log in. Forgot your password? Forgot your username? Create an account. Full refunds will be given unless you want us to hold your spot for next year. Hope to see you there! Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation. I don't have enough experience with DSO's to make qualified judgments but my initial impression is I was hoping for more. I'll attach some of my first waveforms.

They look to be kind of raw unfiltered? Buy The Book! Index Recent Topics Search. Log in Username. Remember me. Log in Forgot your password? Start Prev 1 2 3 Next End. Anyone use any Hantek Scopes?

Confirm what it's not, and fix what it is! I have a DSO The longer it was used, the more it would bog down the computer. If it was on for more than a few hours, it would eventually lock up the computer. I tried to get him to pick up another one, but he is looking to buy a better scanner now. The scope has a lot better spec's than the other scopes Hantek is marketing now.

If my died today, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another one tomorrow. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Last edit: 22 Dec by arbez. Reason: Just because spell check says it's OK, doesn't mean it is.

MacFadyen Replied by Andy. I keep a Hantek in drawer case I need more than 2 channels. In terms of bang per buck as starter scopes Hantek offer a lot but the Windows software is a bit of a pain to use. Also the build quality is variable on both the scopes and the amp clamps. I own two of their amp clamps one works fine the other arrived broken and I had to spend two hours fixing it to get it to work.

If buyimg again I would just buy generic amp clamps. I have been considering the Hantek IDSs Wifi scope which is a non-automotive scope --I have dabb;led with Wifi scopes last year I used a Velleman WTF for a couple of months I actually liked it a lot , great build quality and windows and Android software was easy to use but was prone to crashing and didn't show pre-trigger events which is very important for some car diagnostics.

With these non-automotive scopes it is important to porotect the scope by using an attenuator when connecting to coils and injectors. If you can find a supplier you might want to look at the Auto Ditex range autoditex. I own a Hantek c and while it's passable, I wouldn't recommend it. In general, I find you can't practically use more than two of the channels.

If you're on a really tight budget, it would be better to get the two channel , as it's higher bandwidth and there is also decent third party software for it, openHantek or sigrock. If you can afford a little more I think I'd recommend the also. I haven't used it yet, but I just ordered one myself and it will be here in a few weeks. I can let you know how it turns out if I remember. There's a nice long post here talking about scope options: www. Hi, first time poster here.

I'm open to instruction and advice. The attached waveforms are single triggered events. I read somewhere the Hantek software behaved better if you start capture by clicking Auto button, so I did. I adjusted voltage and timebase the best I could. My setup was the dso outside of the engine compartment and the ground leads clipped on engine ground.

The HT25 was used for the secondary captures and the CC is clamped on the ground wire at the distributer. Engine is Honda Accord 2. There is a known misfire on 4 cylinder "secondary-bad" attached image The other "secondary-good" image is clamped on another spark plug wire.

I can still return this scope and I"m trying to decide if I should stick with it or try something else. Thanks, Mike. You need to run the calibration after the scope has been turned on a while and warmed up.

I've been playing with my hantek c and the ht25 and cc65 and I'll probably post about my experiences. One thing you could do is use video capture software, I use the free version of debut video capture and record the secondary vs primary waveforms on the same screen.

I'd be curious what result you get. On my c the ht25 waveform looks like crap compared to the primary waveform. Maybe I'll post some video links.

I'm also just starting out and I actually ordered a be which will probably be here in about two weeks. I did some primary vs secondary ignition waveform captures and posted the results in this other thread: www. I'd appreciate your feedback. Here are some results looking at the primary ignition waveform and current ramp. The trick with the cc65 is that it accepts interference from the environment, so you have to hold or set the body of the cc65 as far away from the coil as possible to get a clean signal.

Also, don't forget to let the scope warm up and run the calibration routine. Wow, nice waveforms SailorBob! If I could get that quality I'd be a happy camper. OK, I think I may have a lead no pun intended on what the problem is.

I found these images of know good waveforms on the Picoscope website :. Last edit: 02 Feb by SailorBob. Found the solution:. Nice work Bob! Maybe I'm doing calibration wrong. Please have a look at my hookup. I used the included leads.

I have my HT25 leads pulled up away from the engine but I'm not getting anywhere near the waveforms your seeing. I had a family rush job come in so I'll get back to the Hantek tomorrow hopefully and try your settings. Thanks much for the help. On my scope, it says to hook up all the channels being calibrated to a ground. I hooked both power and ground clips to my battery negative on all the channels I used and ran the calibration right before making this video.

So I figured some more stuff out with getting secondary waveforms. Basically, some cars have pretty well insulated plug wires, which can degrade the quality of the signal one gets. I found that in a case like this, installing a COP extension plug wire in series with the regular plug wire helped me get more accurate signals:.

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